Rome › Trastevere
Trastevere Trastevere
Cobbled lanes, ivy-covered houses and the best evening atmosphere in Rome.
Photo: Krzysztof Golik / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
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Across the Tiber from the historic centre, Trastevere is a maze of narrow lanes, small piazzas and trattorias. The church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, with its golden mosaics, is the heart of the area.
It is at its best in the early evening for an aperitivo and dinner. It is busy at weekends, but the quieter lanes towards the Janiculum hill still feel local.
Tickets / priceFree to wander. Santa Maria in Trastevere is free to enter.
Opening hoursOpen at all times. Restaurants serve dinner from about 19:30, and many places close on Mondays.
Time needed90–240 minutes
Best timeEarly evening
Getting thereTram 8 from Largo Argentina (10 min); bus 23 or 280; Trastevere station is 15 min away on foot
AddressPiazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, 00153 Roma
Booking advice
Book dinner on Friday and Saturday, especially for the best trattorias.
Insider tips
- Walk up the Janiculum hill (Gianicolo) for a view over the whole city at sunset.
- Try the Roman dish cacio e pepe or fried artichokes (carciofi alla giudia) in a family-run trattoria.
- Avoid restaurants with a tourist menu board and staff calling out to you from the street.
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